14
Mar 2012
Another Satisfied and Happy Treadstone Customer With his new Turbo Charged Spec-V!
Recently Jesse of Palmdale, CA who goes by the avatar of tweed on http://www.allsentra.com installed a brand new B16 Treadstone Spec-V turbo kit into his 2011 Metallic Blue Rocket!!
Here are some of the the pics of the install he performed himself, this server as a great supplemental instructions to Treadstone's instillation and technical manuals :
Let's Begin: "remove the exhaust mannifold...try not to damage the gaskets"
"remove fuel rail, careful fuel under pressure here. i didnt go with the 440s i used the 550s not to sure if you will have to soldier new plugs in, i did so remove old injectors, use vasoline arround the seals and install the new ones. push into position on fuel rail first then push rail with injectors back into plate, put injector covers back on the old ones. next solder the new plugs to the harness. you will need soldiering skills and shrink tube here on this step if you do it. the colored wire will go to the red the 2toned brown yellow i believe is to the black. every injector will have a different pos color, make sure you keep them in order."
"done here now reinstall the mani and throttle body."
"now start installing the oneway valves as treadstone tells you to, blow on them the side you blow on that closes is the side that goes towards the manifold. this step is important."
"next remove the oil pan bolts, then this part is tricky but no worries, use a hammer and a sharp small chissel. gently beat it in straight in several spots arround the pan to crack the seal loose, be carefull not to damage the block yhe pan is cheaper and bendable so focus your damage to it if you have to."
"make sure you look on both sides to insure you are between the webs. drill the hole then tap it. i used a angled air drill for its small size. then put thread sealant on the fitting( the smaller one of the 2). and thread in. be careful its aluminum, i thread mine in untill it was a little past flush on the inside."
"make sure you get all the shavings out with carb cleaner. seriously keep sprayin even after its clean just to be safe. clean the pan and masage all dents out from removal. place it on a wood block and use a small socket and hammer to tap the dents out. then apply sealant if you use rtv put it on thick and spread out evenly across, wait 15 mins to get tacky, put the pan back on the engine and dont tighten just yet. just enough threads to hold it on, wait 10 more mins and torque them."
"now the next step is to assemble the entire compressor/manifold/wastegate/downpipe/manifold. use copper high temp on all the connections, i did at least."
"wrap the downpipe as well."
"tighten everything up, install the two studs they provide in the kit to the head, and drop it in snug it up...plumbing it is quite simple due to the awesome perfect fit piping. install the ecu bracket and ecu before putting the pipe with the maf in it. install the maf and bov first of course"
"once drilled install the intercooler low then move all the way up, leave a gap so you dont rub no holes in it though. i used some faom seal tape to protect the core."
"make sure all couplings are tight but dont overtighten and crush the pipe. once thats all done reinstall the radiator."
"reinstall altenator/everything else thats not on the car.front section/ splashguard. then the battery relocation kit is simple. pull the floor out of the trunk, drill the two holes in the box, run cables through the box, run power out of the already exhisting rubber gromet. run down the bottom of the car using the compression clamps they provide, crimp/solder the end on, mount to post and hook it up. make sure you isolate any bare spots to eliminate chance of arcing. i used a 100 amp fuse inline for extra security like they advise, buit not required."
After you refill all the fluids and cycle the engine, check for any leeks a allow for a break in period and recheck for any leeks and then its time to go MAZDA SPEED3 HUNTING!!! ;) For all Sentra Based Performance Products offered by Treadstone Click Here! If you would like to view Treadstone's Technical write up Click Here! If you would like to view Jesse's Post on allsentra.com Click Here!
Let's Begin: "remove the exhaust mannifold...try not to damage the gaskets"
"remove fuel rail, careful fuel under pressure here. i didnt go with the 440s i used the 550s not to sure if you will have to soldier new plugs in, i did so remove old injectors, use vasoline arround the seals and install the new ones. push into position on fuel rail first then push rail with injectors back into plate, put injector covers back on the old ones. next solder the new plugs to the harness. you will need soldiering skills and shrink tube here on this step if you do it. the colored wire will go to the red the 2toned brown yellow i believe is to the black. every injector will have a different pos color, make sure you keep them in order."
"done here now reinstall the mani and throttle body."
"now start installing the oneway valves as treadstone tells you to, blow on them the side you blow on that closes is the side that goes towards the manifold. this step is important."
"next remove the oil pan bolts, then this part is tricky but no worries, use a hammer and a sharp small chissel. gently beat it in straight in several spots arround the pan to crack the seal loose, be carefull not to damage the block yhe pan is cheaper and bendable so focus your damage to it if you have to."
"make sure you look on both sides to insure you are between the webs. drill the hole then tap it. i used a angled air drill for its small size. then put thread sealant on the fitting( the smaller one of the 2). and thread in. be careful its aluminum, i thread mine in untill it was a little past flush on the inside."
"make sure you get all the shavings out with carb cleaner. seriously keep sprayin even after its clean just to be safe. clean the pan and masage all dents out from removal. place it on a wood block and use a small socket and hammer to tap the dents out. then apply sealant if you use rtv put it on thick and spread out evenly across, wait 15 mins to get tacky, put the pan back on the engine and dont tighten just yet. just enough threads to hold it on, wait 10 more mins and torque them."
"now the next step is to assemble the entire compressor/manifold/wastegate/downpipe/manifold. use copper high temp on all the connections, i did at least."
"wrap the downpipe as well."
"tighten everything up, install the two studs they provide in the kit to the head, and drop it in snug it up...plumbing it is quite simple due to the awesome perfect fit piping. install the ecu bracket and ecu before putting the pipe with the maf in it. install the maf and bov first of course"
"once drilled install the intercooler low then move all the way up, leave a gap so you dont rub no holes in it though. i used some faom seal tape to protect the core."
"make sure all couplings are tight but dont overtighten and crush the pipe. once thats all done reinstall the radiator."
"reinstall altenator/everything else thats not on the car.front section/ splashguard. then the battery relocation kit is simple. pull the floor out of the trunk, drill the two holes in the box, run cables through the box, run power out of the already exhisting rubber gromet. run down the bottom of the car using the compression clamps they provide, crimp/solder the end on, mount to post and hook it up. make sure you isolate any bare spots to eliminate chance of arcing. i used a 100 amp fuse inline for extra security like they advise, buit not required."
After you refill all the fluids and cycle the engine, check for any leeks a allow for a break in period and recheck for any leeks and then its time to go MAZDA SPEED3 HUNTING!!! ;) For all Sentra Based Performance Products offered by Treadstone Click Here! If you would like to view Treadstone's Technical write up Click Here! If you would like to view Jesse's Post on allsentra.com Click Here!